On My Way Home, July 26, 2019
I left Israel late Wednesday night,
but, one really never leaves that land. Its smells, sights, and sensations
weave its way into the mind like images in a dream.
Most days, early in the morning, when the air was still cool and
the streets were mostly empty, I would run from my apartment near Emeq Rafa’im
up toward the center of the city. I’d pass through the renovated train station
turned into a hub of restaurants, stores and gathering places over the tracks
up toward the King David Hotel. I’d pass the park with the iconic Windmill and
then the Hebrew Union College where I studied for a year many decades ago. I’d
turn right into the Mamilla Mall, an ironic twist of a poor, dangerous
neighborhood pre-1967 resurrected into an architectural masterpiece of an open
aired high end commerce and shopping center. I couldn’t help but smile as I ran
along the corridor of re-claimed stone.
At the end, a stairway led up into a different universe. I ran
up the two flights of stairs.
Right in front of me, the old city with its thick walls, Tower
of David, and the doorway of Jaffa Gate presented itself with all its glory and
storied history. Each time I ascended, I felt like it was waiting quietly and
majestically for people like me to behold its presence. It’s hard not to feel
small, not just in size, but also in time against the backdrop of its long
existence.
I’d run along the outside to the left, up and around the corner
toward the Damascus Gate and East Jerusalem, and then turn back and trace the
same path. There is a great distance between the western part of the city where
Jaffa Gate stands and the eastern part near Damascus Gate, not in meters
though. The hard stones of the wall face the realities and difficulties of the
Palestinian population who reside there in East Jerusalem. The early morning
stillness may mask some of it, but it is there: dormant for the moment and in
need of resolution.
As I run back past the walls, the city is waking up, as yeshiva
students rush toward their classes and people of all nationalities head toward
their day.
I end up back at my apartment just a few blocks where I had
lived during my first year in rabbinic school. I head up the hill toward the
Hartman Institute and dive in with my study partner deciphering the texts
before us, which regardless of the topic, take us on another journey of what
Rav Kook, the first chief rabbi of Israel espoused about this land.
The old becomes new and the new becomes holy.
It’s good to be home with Israel in my mind’s eye. I shall not
forget you, O Jerusalem.